Removing Baffles Marauder (1999-2003)
Please do this at your own risk,
MIG is not responsible for any complications



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Removing Baffles from the Stock 1999-2003
Marauder Exhaust Pipes


I find the look of the stock Marauder pipes (post 1999) to be very complimentary to the overall looks of the Marauder.  So besides not wanting to spend a couple hundred dollars on aftermarket pipes that didn’t do much for me aesthetically, I decided to remove the baffle assemblies from my stock pipes.  I’ve been very satisfied with the results.  I didn’t have to adjust anything and the sound the first time you start it up is like a Huey coming over the hill.

It looks fast even when it’s standing still!!!


Step 1 in adding a little more sound to the stock Marauder pipes:

A little bit louder now.  I drilled 6 evenly-spaced ¼” holes thru 2 layers of metal. It gives a little more sound than stock.  Fairly easy to do.

If you want to remove the baffles and really get a lot more sound volume and better looks, proceed…

Two very similar methods of removing the baffle are shown here – the primary difference is the price of the tool used, ease of removal and time spent.

I recommend buying the "Aggressor" 2  1/8” hole saw (manufactured by BLU-MOL, sold at Home Depot for about $28).  This saw/mandrel is made of hardened tool steel for cutting metal and is able to cut thru the hard 3rd disk.  I used a cheaper 1-piece hole saw (for drilling holes in wooden doors), but this approach requires a lot of hammering and bending since the hole saw is unable to cut thru the 3rd disk.

To perform the baffle-ectomy, start by drilling out the 3 rivets and removing the chrome disk that covers the baffles.

The next step is cutting thru the disks using a 2” or a 2-1/8” hole saw   Use lots of 3-in-1 oil (or similar) to lubricate the metal and drill bit as you drill.  The actual baffle is shown in the photo below. 


This is what you get when you use the more expensive hole saw - No pounding of the disks/plates is required!  Home Depot - 2  1/8” hole saw called "Aggressor" manufactured by BLU-MOL.  Made from tool steel for cutting metal.  The saw and mandrel cost about $28, but literally gets the job done in 40 minutes taking your time and you don't have to do ANY hammering.

The 3rd disk is made from a different metal than the first 2 and is tougher to cut thru, but let the saw do the work – Important point here is that the 3rd disk is not attached to the inside wall of the pipe like the first 2 disks, so let the saw do the work and don’t push too hard or you will push the baffle down into the tube and you will have to use the brute force methods described below!!!

When you have cut thru the 3rd disk, take the long-nosed vise grips, twist back and forth a couple times and it pops right out.  Repeat with the other pipe and you’re ready to start it up!!  Get ready for a beautiful sound!!

Read the following section on using the cheaper hole saw, and you will easily see how much easier it’s going to be to use the first method with the $30 hole saw.

If you go with the cheaper hole saw, cutting thru the first 2 layers/disks is step 1.  The 3rd disk is a much harder steel and you won’t be able to cut into it with the less expensive hole saw.  The 3rd disk requires persuasion of a different type!  (This is where the disk crunching happens).

The 3rd disk is not attached to the inside of the pipes like the first 2 disks, but it is a larger diameter than the hole in the end of the exhaust pipe, so the 3rd disk must be made smaller in order for the baffle assembly to be removed from inside the pipe.  See photo below: 

I used a few different tools for this task.

First, I made sure I had the other end of the pipes backed up by something that wouldn’t bend or scratch them.  (I took my pipes off, you might be able to do it with the pipes on the bike, but there is a lot of pounding involved!  I laid the pipes down on a rug/blanket and put a wood block between the wall and the other end of the pipe.  I used a crowbar and a hand sledge to start to bend the 3rd disk.  The top pic shows best how the 3rd disk would bend over on 4 sides.

From that point I used a big cold chisel/big standard screwdriver to start on the 4 corners of the 3rd disk going down.  Another tool that worked well was a 6” section of cast iron pipe with about a 2” diameter from Home Depot (I forget the actual diameter, but you want the outer diameter of this pipe to be just a little smaller than the opening in the end of the exhaust pipe).  I slid the pipe down inside the exhaust pipe and started banging away.

One last tool was a needle nose vise grips.  I’d use this to grip the baffle’s pipe and pull it out of the exhaust pipe.  Sometimes the baffle would get jammed from the pounding needed to bend over the 3rd disk, so I’d stick something into the baffle’s pipe and use the leverage to loosen the baffle.

When you get the baffle assembly out of the pipe, there is one more baffle in the pipe, but there is no way you can remove this one.  It can be seen in the next photo.  It looks like it’s near the end of the exhaust pipe in this picture, but it’s actually about 8-inches inside.

I think the “open-ended” pipe looks much better and it definitely sounds better as well!



Here are a few testimonials:

“I finally got around to pulling (ripping) the baffles out of my '02 rauder the other day. WOW, that was the exact sound I was looking for. I knew I had it right when my girlfriend, mom, and sister said it sounded like I had exhaust problems. My dad is wondering how to make his 81 goldwing sound that way. I was told it would take about 30 minutes, more like 2 hours to rip em out. I like the look of the stock cans, but wanted more sound. It still runs great. Thanks everyone here for all the great info on such a great bike”


“I and two others I know of have done this mod with stock everything. Nobody has re-jetted or changed anything in their carbs. Mine seems to run fine after 75-100 miles like this. I figure I have saved a ton, because I don't want aftermarket pipes anymore and I don't seem to need to re-jet.”


“Wahoo! Nice sound and still fairly quiet at idle. Crack it and you have some noise.”